Wooden Decks & Construction

WHAT KIND OF WOOD? There are several routes to take. First thing to decide is whether you use pressure-treated wood or not. The choice for non-pressure-treated boils down to plain wood, redwood or cedar. "Plain" wood generally means two kinds, spruce or some kind of pine. Redwood, of course, comes from California, and cedar (usually eastern white) comes from New England. Don't use plain wood. You'll replace it in six to eight years. REDWOOD AND CEDAR Redwood and cedar are, however, resistant to moisture and insects, but not impervious. Their resistance is variable, depending on the grade, the age of the tree and the even whether the original tree had a western or eastern exposure. Cedar is the choice if you want to stain or paint. It takes both nicely, but can also remain completely unfinished. People with deep pockets can take the secondary path by using redwood. Remember, however, that redwood isn't meant to be structural. Actually, it's more decorative than structural, and much too soft to use for things like stair treads. And, after a few years in the weather, redwood loses it's distinctive coloring, and will look like any other wood. Before you specify redwood, check the price. Even low-grade redwood (with lots of knots) will give you a quick case of sticker shock. THE RIGHT STUFF - (OUR TAKE) Naturally, we think you shouldn't use ANYTHING except the proper grade of pressure treated lumber. Pressure-treated yellow pine is just about the all-around best, lasts the longest and is the most economical. Even though pine is technically a softwood, yellow pine is hard! This is what they use for stair treads - tough stuff. CONS: Pressure treated wood is treated with arsenic and other toxic compounds and should not be used inside a structure; it doesn't take staining well; it has a tendency to "cup" or even warp; and can split if not nailed or screwed properly. For these reasons, it can present problems to contractors not used to working with it. Wood for pressure treatment is placed in a hermetically sealed vat, then all the air is evacuated, and replaced with the preservative. The chemicals then penetrate deep into the wood. You can't dip or paint wood and get even close to the same protection. NOW ON TO THE DECK Let's start at the very bottom. Put in a proper foundation. Concrete pilings are the best, extended up to ground level, under each support. No termite pre-treatment necessary. The builder comes in with a giant post hole digger, drills holes in the ground and fills the holes with concrete. Build up from that, using aluminum heel plates between the concrete pilings and wooden supports. These plates will keep the joist or girder ends above the earth and moisture.